Climbing Calpe

We took a visiting friend to Calpe at the weekend to climb up the Parque Natural del Peñón de Ifach (Parc Natural del Penyal d'Ifac in the local Valencian language) as we have done so many times.  It's not too hot to do an energetic walk and scramble up the rocks at the moment and we wanted to show him the lovely views.

Calpe port area

The Peñón is a huge limestone rock jutting out in the sea and linking the land by some rock debris forming two bays on either side.  It's a natural park and a trail has been created to take you up to the rock all the way to a lookout point (mirador) at the farthest end, or you can hike up to the highest tip at some 330mt above sea level, which is quite high considering you are kind of in the sea!  However a word of warning, you should go with trainers on your feet at least if you want to reach the highest point.  There are loose rocks and there are accidents every now and again, one of which I witnessed on a previous visit.  If you are careful step by step you will enjoy it and be rewarded with the satisfaction of conquering Calpe.

Go through the tunnel but be careful...
the rocks are slippery!

It is free to access but at some times of the year its closed so check before you start your ascent.  On this trip we got to the tunnel and out the other side, but we couldn't proceed any further because the seagulls are currently nesting and rearing their young and recently hatched.  There are also peregrine falcons and some semi-domesticated cats living on the rock.  It's also home to some rare plant species which have flourished in this micro habitat.

Clear blue waters

As you go up and look back to Calpe you can appreciate the lagoon that is separated by the sea from the sandy beaches either side of the Peñon.  It's what remains of a more extensive wetlands area called the Marina Alta.

If you go at a different time of the year and can get to the top or the mirador then on a clear day (and with some excellent binoculars) you can see the island of Ibiza, so I'm told.

It's funny but when I downloaded the photos I realised that I hadn't took a photo of the impressive 'Peñón' itself from down there in Calpe.  I suppose its because I have seen it so many times and didn't think about the post when I was walking towards it.  If you google 'Calpe' you will see a photo of the huge rock.  If any of you have been to Gibraltar you can imagine what its like... just smaller and without the monkeys.  Apparently the Phoenicians called it North rock and Gibraltar was South rock, guiding them along the Iberian coastline.

Frustrating fiestas and stinky streets

We are oh so that much closer to the annual local fiesta called Las Hogueras de San Juan (the bonfires of Saint John) which officially runs from 19th to 24th June every year on those dates.  However the preparations are already underway with the bonfire artists putting the finishing touches to their creations before being transported and planted in situ in the 100 or so sites around the city ready to be judged in the competition, and there will also be more 'mascletà' displays in the weekends before the main events.

But this fiesta also brings me my deepest frustrations with Alicante city and its people.
I'm afraid that there is a rant about to come...
Along with lots of fun comes lots of cleaning up to do.  No-one likes to clean up after a party as we all know, but the streets are the responsibility of all who enjoy the delights of the 24-7 fiestas.

If it's your first time in the city during the time of the fiestas you could come away with a positive and a negative view.
On one hand is the positive fact that the whole city converts into a big, happy party.  You can't escape the music and there is always something to do.  Not just partying but there are cultural and religious elements to these fiestas that are important to maintain.
However there are negatives.  Many of the streets, especially those in the centre of the city are cut off to all traffic as the barracas and party tents take over and the sculptures dominate the intersections and plazas.  If anyone wants to continue a normal working life during these dates its virtually impossible.  Don't even consider bringing a car into the centre at these times as you won't find parking or be able to move about easily.

What bothers me most of all is the stench!  Alicante is a dirty city to me in general and as it hardly ever rains the streets don't get washed down anywhere near as often enough.  Throughout the year people with dogs (and there is a large amount of households with one or two little doggies here because that's all that can fit in the small flats that are built) let their pets wee everywhere: up any corner, lamp post, litter bin, public bench and shop facades, especially mine!  They are too lazy to look for an alternative because most of the time they don't really want to walk the dog anyway.  I have calculated that I spend an hour a week just mopping the pavement outside my shop and its facade because of the dog wee that awaits me every morning.  Public spaces are drenched in it and when the sun gets hot it really draws out the stink and the whole town smells.  I am not exaggerating.

Now you can imagine this, coupled with the whole of Alicante out on the streets drinking: where do they go to relieve themselves?  Where do you think? Men AND women.  They do put some portaloos out on some of the streets but its not enough.  So its bound to happen, you get caught short and cant find a place to go.  I understand.  But the least I expect is for each and every one the streets to be cleaned at least immediately after the fiestas or even during.  Especially the quiet side streets because thats where people go to pee.  But no.  The aroma is overwhelming.  It's disgusting and not enough is done about it.  I'm sure with what extra is brought to the coffers during the fiestas a special cleaning service can be put together.

That's all I really wanted to say in this post because I wanted to warn people of the reality of the situation especially during these upcoming fiestas.

What is your impression of Alicante?